Tourist attractions can be a bit hit and miss. Sometimes they are totally worth it, like seeing the statue of David, getting your picture taken below Christ the Redeemer or seeing the temples of Asia. Sometimes, they are not. Leaving Prague on the way to Krakow it seemed important to visit the bone church in Kutna Hora. The small chapel is heritage listed because it is decorated with the bones of about 70,000 people. Skulls, fibular, tibia and the like are fashioned into chandeliers and wall decorations. We even got a foggy morning for our visit. The place itself is small and although the decorations were impressive, especially when I think about the people (actual people) that have gone in to making it, but unfortunately I was under-whelmed. I’m not sure how it is possible to be both impressed and under-whelmed at the same time. But it happened. I was not under-whelmed by the delicious Czech honey cake that I ate in the cafe across the road from the church. delicious.
Stopping overnight in Moravia’s Olomouc, a student town with beautiful old buildings and a grand town square. Classic Europe. Of course there were many churches, despite the high percentage of atheism in the Czech people. One was even visited by Mother Teresa in the 90s, another had medieval torture instruments; not your average churches, I guess. A nice break from the norm. Because in Europe, the norm is churches! Lots and lots of churches.
The town was very quiet, it seems the students didn’t feel like braving the cold the night I were there. So we spent our time in wine cellars, pubs and cafes. I have to say this wasn’t the most vibrant of towns. It was pretty and had some nice stuff, but I don’t think there was much more than a day-trip’s worth to do, especially when the students are away.
The grand square was a highlight. It featured its own Astronomical clock, whose medieval incarnation was destroyed in World War II and was replaced by a Soviet astronomical clock with heroic mosaic workers and ‘name days’ of communist heroes like Lenin and Marx. There was also the largest plague column in Europe and gorgeous pastel buildings all lined up. Very pretty.
A nice, but not too exciting, trip into a quiet and ‘real’ town; which was quite welcome after the tourist onslaught of Prague.



